HT Auto Rear Apron Install

This afternoon I received my order for the HT Auto rear aprons. I have been putting off doing the rear corners of the car mostly because I felt I couldn’t find the right pieces to match the S206 side skirts. Read More

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08+ WRX/STI Headlight Split | DIY Painting | Baking

I’ve decided to give my headlights a little facelift by splitting them and painting some of the inside components. The headlights are out of my 2011 WRX and they are already considered “black housing” as opposed to the 2012+ “chrome housing”. Read More

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Putting a Band-Aid on a Dining Room

Over this past weekend I decided amongst myself that I was going to get rid of the bright orange color that was painted in the dining room. Since we moved into this home, there has been some extremely bright and vibrant colored rooms throughout the house and one by one we are trying to bring them back to a softer tone.  Read More

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Finishing Touches

Today might be the last day that we will be posting the progress of the Master bathroom remodel. Looking back at the images that were taken at the beginning of the process, it took a total of 7 weeks to complete working on it for an average of 3 hours a night. Some of the weekends were lost because of other engagements but mostly once we started, It was nose to the grinding wheel until it was done. I have trouble trying to calculate how much it would have cost to have this done by a contractor but If I took a guess I would assume about $6,000 – $7,000 range. Our total cost for material was roughly around $2,800 and I feel that we should be able to get a good return on investment compared to that beauty in the “before” picture. Read More

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Drilling Porcelain Tile for Toilet Flange

One of the last big installations of the Master Bathroom will be the toilet. Since the 3″ drain for the toilet was ready to be cut and flange installed, I thought this would be a simple 30 minute job. Boy was I wrong.

I was able to trim the drain down to the proper height for the flange, glue it all together and mark the holes to where I needed to drill through the porcelain tile. It was only a couple days ago where I drilled through the subway tile with new masonry bit like butter, so I was under the assumption that this would go just as well. I did find that porcelain is only similar to ceramic in very few ways. One way that it is definitely not the same, is that way it drills. It is as HARD as steel and nearly impossible to drill without the proper bit. Read More

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Installing an IKEA Vanity and Sink

We are getting closer to the completion of the master bathroom. Today is the log awaited project of installing the IKEA vanity cabinet and sink top. We purchased the complete package from IKEA before we started this project when we were visiting the New York area over the Christmas holiday. It’s been sitting in the guest room just waiting to be put together and installed. Well, today’s the day!

The plumbing for the IKEA cabinet is slightly different than a normal base cabinet because of the massive sliding drawers that they have. For their size (32″) you won’t find another vanity with as much storage capabilities as this one. With the larger drawers comes extremely tight plumbing. Knowing this small fact before you do any of the rough plumbing will give you a huge advantage when it comes time to install it. The stub-out lines and valves must be flush against the wall and the drain will need to come out of the wall and not the floor.

All the pre-planning paid off largely as I was able to install the vanity within minutes. The only hang up was the length of the supply hoses for the faucet. Because of how flush the valves had to be against the wall, the only spot that I could place them was really low to avoid the cross studs from the guest bedroom. With the valves being so low, I was forced to extend the supply lines. the hard part of that is not too often do you see 3/8″ extension lines so I though I would have to get very creative in the plumbing isle of Lowe’s. To my surprise, they carried  3/8″ compression fitting extensions, weird right?

So as you can see below, this is how it will look after you are all set. The p-trap is tight against the wall and supply lines are tucked up nicely out of the way and secured by some pex piping holders. The cable on the top right of the picture is one of those cable driven stoppers on American Standard faucets and since the IKEA comes with a special shallow drain line, it already comes with a supplied manual stop.

We love the new sink with the clean lines and giant drawers with the ez-close sliders.

IKEA vanity base

IKEA cabinet and sink

 

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Kohler Tub Door Installation

With last nights success of the floor tile installation,  the following morning was left to tackle a much awaited Kohler Tub Door Installation. I have always been a huge fan of the glass tub doors for a few reasons. Number one, it looks Sa-weet! Number two, it’s really easy to clean and blocks water from escaping the shower and onto the floor. Third is that you can take a shower without out a cold wet piece of plastic touching you (best reason).

The installation of the glass couldn’t be any easier. With a couple hand tools and a few hours, you’ll be styling in no time.

I followed the instructions to a tee and felt they were definitely good enough to not have to write a step-by-step install guide. I will however point out a couple good tips. One would be to have a handy 5/16 masons bit ready to drill the 6-holes needed to mount the side rails. Another is to be generous on the bead of silicone that you have to put on the bottom rail before you place it down. There is no screws that hold it down so if you cheap out on the bead, you may have water going underneath the rail and onto the floor. The last tip is to try to take off all the stickers on the glass before you mount the doors. There were a couple of stickers that Kohler placed on the glass using crappy glue that were a nightmare to remove. Other than that, follow the instruction and with a little help from my images below you will be able to complete this in an early morning before it’s lunchtime.

Layout of the door rails Read More

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New Ideas for the WRX in 2013

Just a minor update on what’s going on in the background of new ideas for my WRX. I haven’t done too much to the car since my wedding back in October (giving it a wash has NOT been one of those things since then) but a lot has been going through my mind in terms of what to do for the new year.

First order of business will be the change of suspension. I’ve been running the Stance GR+ coilovers for about a year and a half and they are still doing their job as they were designed to do. For an $1100 set of coilovers, you should only expect for your car to be able to go low and ride rough on any surface that is not new pavement. The Stance coilovers are a great choice for a budget track car but I do feel they have no business on the street.

After the Stance’s are removed, I will most likely be replacing them with the GTWORX struts and RCE black springs. Since the car is truly a daily driver, I do feel that ride comfort should be #1 and a really good matched spring/strut combo will give me that back. On top of the new springs and struts will finally be the addition of the RCE front and rear swaybars. This alone should bring the car back to what I originally wanted the car to feel like. After some good advice from my friend Robb Sutton about a year ago, I’m finally taking his recommendation and doing the sways. Read More

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Wood Grain Tile Installation

Now that we have some beautiful paint on the walls we can concentrate on the flooring for the next couple days. Before any tile goes down on the floor there is a little preparation and installation of backer board on the subfloor to properly adhere tiles to. Growing up I can remember tiling with my father over plywood surfaces and having them last for as long as I know of. Since my childhood and the invention of the internet, I’m forced by guilt to try to follow the tile guru bandwagon and properly lay down Hardi-Backer over the subfloor for a “real” long lasting tile job. Also, when I mean proper I mean laying down thin-set in between the subfloor and Hardi then screwing it down with Backer-On screws then taping the seems with Alkali-Resistant tape and thin-set. Only the by the laws of tile masters are you allowed to think about laying tile.

So, that’s what I did… Exactly.

The process is fairly easy. Just mix up your Versabond thin-set and comb it out over your subfloor one section at a time. Put down your Hardi-Backer and screw it in using the Backer-On screws (recommended). Once you have all the Hardi down, you tape the seams much like how I did in the show surround or like any drywall installation, except don’t use compound, use thin-set.

Thin-set under Backer-Board

Hardi-Backer Board Read More

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Bathroom Primer and Color Choice

With so many choices of color and paint manufactures, how do you decide on what color will work best for you? Well… You don’t, at least not that easily. The process of picking a paint color should start with the color palette of your home and flow with the tones that are present in that palette. Not saying that if you like green, that every room has to be a shade of green but you can easily hone in on a color if you can agree on a palette or theme tone of our home.

For us, we didn’t identify our color palette until we started to look for a color for the master bathroom. The laundry room color Sage Green was just a color that we liked, so we purchased it. Then when we did the living room we used a blue-green tone that had a resemblance of the laundry room color with the addition of blue. It kind of just worked out without having to think about color palettes but adding a third room into the mix is where it started to get difficult.

Just picking out one color can be quite a chore, but when you start to think at a grand scale of a whole home palette, that’s where you can either cough up a lot of money for an interior designer or take matters into our own hand and use the free tools available to guide you along the process. Read More

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