DW65c Fuel Pump Install – 2008+ WRX/STi

The is an install write-up for the DW65 fuel pump for the 2008+ WRX/STi

To start off, I left the car overnight to release as much pressure from the system as possible. It is also nice to have the least amount of fuel in the tank. I had nearly a full tank and it made things a little harder when it came to taking the assembly out of the tank.

*Remove the negative terminal from the battery and unscrew your fuel cap.*

Tools needed are:

A clean area (preferably not outside)
Phillips screwdriver #2
2 – Flathead screwdrivers, small
8mm socket with 1/4″ ratchet
Needle nose pliers, medium
Rubber gloves
12″-15″ Glass or Pyrex dish. (I used a pie dish)
Paper towels
Glass surface to work on with cardboard underneath
Fire extinguisher (safety first)
DW65c pump with filter, o-ring, grease

Start off by removing the rear seat bottom. To remove, locate the two little black plastic pull tabs under the outside corners. Once the outside is released, find the center point of the seat, reach underneath and pull straight up.

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Once the seat is removed, you will see two silver removable covers. The one you are looking for is on the passenger side with the warning labels on it.

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Unplug the harness that is coming out of the cover and remove the four Phillips screws. Once the cover is off pull the harness and grommet through the hole. The foam can come off now too. Try to remember its orientation, its not the end of the world if you don’t but it helps.

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Now it’s time to remove the electrical harness from the assembly. Once that is unplugged bend it off to the side to make as much room as possible.
Next is to remove the fuel lines. Use paper towels like the below picture to gather as much fuel leakage as possible. Please move slowly as unplugging the fuel line is messy if not prepared properly. There WILL be fuel leaking out… It’s unavoidable. The trick is to NOT get ANY on your carpet!
Now, using your needle nose pliers slightly squeeze the retainer clip that is front of the fuel line connector. Once squeezed, SLOWLY pull the fuel line away from the housing. On the first line you may still hear pressure release. Get ready to catch the leaking fuel as you get the fuel line away from it’s connector.
Repeat for all three lines.

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Once all three are removed, clean the area free from tools and all dirt that is visible. The next step will be to remove the cover so anything can get in the tank. I’m pretty sure you don’t want to have to fish your hand in the tank if you drop something in there!

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Next, you remove the surrounding 8mm bolts that hold the black metal ring to the tank. The top black metal ring holds the assembly down. It is slightly spring loaded so as you remove the bolts, unscrew them but don’t completely remove them until all of them are almost off. Then one by one while holding the assembly down, remove them.
Now that the black metal ring is free, you can remove it.

*Glass pie dish is perfect for the next step*

I suggest you look ahead to see what the assembly looks like before you remove it. Reason is that there is the fuel level float that sticks out and you need to tilt the assembly as you remove it. If you bend the bracket or break it, your screwed… SO PAY ATTENTION!

While holding back the thee fuel lines with one hand, use the other hand to slowly lift the assembly looking out for the fuel level float while doing so.
Have your glass container ready to stick underneath the assembly as you lift it completely out of the tank.

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Now that the assembly is out, it’s time to disassemble.
Please don’t work on any surface that is unfinished wood, carpet, painted, plastic, or dirty. I used a glass storm door covered in cardboard.

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The first step in the disassembly process is to unclip the four larger white tabs around the assembly. You may need four hands if you have them…
Once uncliped, separate the two pieces by pulling them apart.

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This is how it will look when you get the assembly separated. There is a lot of fuel in the bottom half, be careful not to tip it over while prying the two pieces apart.

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Next you need to remove the two plastic plugs on the bottom of the assembly. One is black and one is white. Unclip the tabs and slowly pull out both of them. There is an o-ring on each of the connectors. I would remove them now and place them back on the male side of the connector so you don’t loose them.

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Next step is to separate the spring loaded top section. Do this by squeezing the two pieces to reveal the hidden c-clip on the bottom of one of the longer steel rods with the springs on them.
Remove the c-clip with pliers and DO NOT LOOSE!

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Once you remove the c-clip you need to unplug the harness that connects the fuel sensors to the top of the assembly and the pump plug once you start to separate the two pieces and get enough room to.

When you get everything apart, it should look like this:

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The next step was the hardest part of the entire process… These two clips that hold the pump in to the housing are so tight!
Use your 2 Flathead screwdrivers to pry the two tabs away from the pump while pushing the pump down to remove it. Take you time and don’t get frustrated… This one might take some time.

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Once you get the pump out, it is time to prep the new DW65c pump.
Remove the two blue caps, place the filter on the bottom of the pump aligning the orientation hole to the nipple on the bottom of the pump. Remove the black spacer that is on the stock pump below the o-ring. Place the spacer on the new pump and use the new o-ring that hopefully came with your purchase. Grease the o-ring with supplied grease.

Pump for Pump

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Top of the DW before it goes into the assembly. Spacer / O-ring / Grease (not show but should be)

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Slide the Pump back into the housing in the same rotation as the one you just took out. Make sure the pump is fully seated in the assembly before continuing. You should hear the click of the two tabs you just struggled with as the pump is seated correctly.

Now re-assemble the pump assembly to the spring top. Make sure you still have both springs on the shafts before putting the two pieces back together. Also, have the c-clip ready and pliers.
Put the two pieces together and squeeze so you can reveal the notch in the shaft for the c-clip.

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Now it is time to put back in the two plugs that are underneath the assembly. I re-used the o-rings on mine. My car has 6000mi so they were in very good shape. If your are worn or brittle, please replace them.
Grease the two o-rings before assembling them again.

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Next, plug back in the fuel sensors to the top of the assembly and plug in the fuel pump.

Before placing the top half back into the bottom half grease the bottom connector. I used the new o-ring I got with my install kit from Rally Sport Direct.

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Next step is to discard the fuel that was in the bottom half of the assembly. I put mine in my lawnmower, please consider the environment before you do something harmful with yours…

I cleaned out the bottom half of the assembly using a paper towel. I must have had some dirt in my fuel at some point…

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Once you are clean, it is time to put the two pieces back together.
Simply line up the tabs and push the top into the bottom until all clips are bottomed out. Make sure all the electrical sensors and pump are plugged in and that the assembly squeezes like it did before. All the lines should be in the same spot and free from any kinks, especially when you compress the assembly together.

This is the finished assembly:

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From here you need to do the reverse of the disassemble process.
First, as you are dropping the assembly into the tank, watch out for the fuel float again. I would line up the black gasket first before you drop the assembly back in. The gasket only goes in one way and it is tough to do once you start dropping the assembly back in.

Next, drop the assembly in using the same orientation as it was before. Once it is down and your gasket is flat, you can put the black metal ring back on. This also has to go in the same spot as you took it out. When the gasket, assembly, and ring are in place and you feel it is positioned correctly and laying flat then I would start putting the surrounding bolts back on. It’s easier to push down on the entire assembly and getting two bolts all the way down, then you can let go and put the other bolts on.
Once they are all on by hand, tighten them in a cross pattern almost like lugs on a rim.

Next, simply slide the fuel lines back on until you hear a click from each of the retainer clips.

Temporarily plug the harness back into the car for a priming sequence.

Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery and screw in your fuel cap.

*DO NOT START YOUR CAR AT THIS POINT!*

Sit in the drivers seat and turn the ignition on. You should here the pump turn on for about 3 seconds then off.
Check the pump area for any leaks!
Turn your ignition off. Then turn the ignition back on again until the pump turns off again. Check for leaks!
Repeat 6 or 7 times until you are safe of leaks and the pump sounds consistently smooth (no gurgling), then you can start your car.

If everything is a check and your car idles well, turn the car off and unplug the harness from the car, pull the harness through the foam gasket and metal cover. Line up the cover and screw it back on, plug the harness back in and lastly, put the seat back in.

Take the car for a test drive and make sure your fuel gauge is reading something and that everything is working.

Enjoy your new pump!