Laundry Room

Using a good Primer and Top Coat

Right after the top coat of compound went on to the walls we started to look at different primer and paint for new drywall. Because the big box stores will tell you a different answer every time you go in there, I decided to go to visit the Sherwin Williams store and buy a quality paint for all the hard work done in this room. I chose to take advantage of their contractor paints by opening an account which will give you access to some really good paint and some discount prices.

I used a premium wall & wood primer, Eminence Ceiling paint and Super Paint for the wall color. Be ready to spend over $150 for 3 gallons of paint BUT be ready to use some of the best paint you can get your hands on. It makes such a huge difference when using a good quality paint from smell, application, coverage, evenness, and dry time.

The primer was done in one evening following the final sanding of the top coat of compound. A simple wiping off of dust with a micro-fiber cloth and we were ready to prime. The primer process is really easy and took once nice coat to cover all the surface differences in the drywall and compound.

The next day I used 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding pole to sand off the fuzziness of the dry wall paper. Whats nice about this primer is that it will bond to the small paper fibers and dry them hard so they can be sanded smooth. I felt I did over sand a bit much when I was doing the compound layers but a good primer and sanding took care of that.

The next day I did the ceiling, which was as simple as you can get. It took about 20 minutes to do and it started to dry 30 minutes later. It was a beautiful Matte finish that will spread out the light really nice and evenly without seeing to many imperfections if there are any.

Lastly was the next day when I applied the color onto the wall. We choose to use a light sage green in a eggshell finish. Since the room wont see to much abuse we were able to choose a nice soft finish that I’ve been a huge fan of.

Here are some of the pictures from the painting process.


Primer 1

 Primer 2

Primer 3

Ceiling Paint:

Ceiling 1

Top Coat Color:

Wet color

Wet color  Paint 2

Paint 1

Mud, Tape, and Sand

What we found is that 4 days after we hung the drywall, the most tedious part of this room was yet to come. The drywall finishing process is a skill that I feel that 90% of people would be happier to go through life without needing to know or try to accomplish. Up until this point, most of the work done was grunt work that required building skills but certainly not artistic skills. Getting a 5 gallon pail of compound was just the start of a long tough 4 day process from start to finish. I feel that even after 4 days that I could still go on for another four just trying to get it perfect. Now, I know that there are a lot of really good drywall finishers that could do this entire process in one day using “hot” mud (quick setting modified compound) and really good skills with the knife, but I’m certainly not one of them.

I felt I did a good job with hanging the drywall which has a direct effect on how your taping and compound installation is going to go. If you give yourself nice, straight, staggered joints and solid straight framing behind the drywall, the process of laying down compound will be easier than if you got really sloppy with the drywall.

I did the process in three coats. The first coat was just to embed the tape into the corners and joints. It’s one of the most important steps because this will be the base for your top two layers. If you end up putting too much compound into the corners and not pulling it off, you will accomplish two bad things… One being that you will have a large amount of compound to sand off and second, you just added a lot more drying time because of the thickness of the compound. Yes, I did find this out the hard way multiple times but I think I’m finally getting the hang of it for next time.

The second coat is a fill coat. This is where I filled each of the seams and corners with compound in order to “fill” in all dips to give the surface a smooth, level appearance. This layer will shrink a bit so you can either overfill the dips or you can just finish the coat, let it dry and go back the next day for another coat. The reason I chose to do one flat coat and let it dry is that you can only do one side of a corner at a time anyway so there was no way to be finished that night. I would rather place less compound and let it shrink than to put a lot on and wait forever for it to dry.

After leaving for the night to dry, I came back the next afternoon to sand the second coat and to apply compound on the second side of all the corners. Once done I was able to top coat any of the seams that didn’t end up in a corner.

The final day of drywall finishing was day 4. This is where I sanded over all of the compound and applied a very light top coat to the entire room. This top coat will be the last coat and will take care of any final areas the need filling before we go to primer tomorrow.

Here are images of the 4 days of drywall finishing.


Drywall 2

Drywall 1

Drywall 3

Drywall 5

Drywall 4


Drywall Installation

Thinking the insulation was a treat to see how the room was taking shape, I don’t know what to say about the look of finishing the drywall hanging. Standard 4×8 sheets of 1/2” drywall we used throughout most of the room. For the curved wall, 1/4” drywall was used so it would be able to bend around the curve easier.

The one large piece on the top right was replaced after I cracked the top off. It was a learning curve mistake that happened when I went to screw it in. The sheet was too tight against the ceiling and I didn’t realize that it wasn’t flush against the wall when I screwed it in, whoops.

Drywall Install

Bending the curves wall drywall was really easy. Using a thick nap paint roller and a paint tray, I just used water and rolled it on both sides of the drywall. I let it sit for just a minute before I started to bend it around the curve of the wall. I tacked it down on one side than slowly bent it as I walked down the length of the drywall. Once I got to the other side, I tacked it using a small 2” wide strip of drywall seen in the picture. I let it dry for about an hour and lifted it up into place.

1/4-curved drywall

Insulating the Exterior Walls

Today was such an amazing day. For the first time since we started, the room actually has a shape to it. Adding the R19 insulation to the exterior walls was not only insulating us from the cold but finally giving us the appearance of what the room will look like. Until now, the room has only been framing which is hard to see past sometimes. So even though the insulation is just brown paper, it’s exciting to see it take shape.

Here are some of the shots from the day

Wall Insulation 1

Wall Insulation


Also, to ensure some protection of the water supply lines for the washer box, I split the insulation to keep it in the center of the bat.

Insulation Detail

Framing the floors

Here are some images of the framing process including the raised floor to compensate for the 5” drop within 4 feet. That’s a lot of custom cut floor joists!

Fire blocking was added to the tops of the framing since this is a balloon style home where fires were known to start on the bottom floors and travel though the walls extremely quickly because they we all open from basement to roof line.

Floor and wall framing


Some PL Adhesive before the 3/4” plywood subfloor went in. The expandable foam was used to fill in the cracks between the original floor boards.

Floor raising

Framing the walls and ceiling

Right away it was time to start the building and framing. We started with the ceiling, then down the walls, across the curved wall, into the niche behind the toilet area and finally reaching the floor.

All 6 sides of the room had to be framed so I could deal with my OCD of not having straight walls. I know I won’t be able to do this to every room but for now I’m giving it all I got.

Had to drop down the ceiling to compensate for the 4″ difference from one side to the other!

Ceiling Drop and Level


Ceiling done, walls done, niche done, and the curved wall has 1×3 added with shims to do the job of taking out any imperfections in the plaster. I left it on because it was in good shape. Not that I would restore it someday but it was just that small amount of plaster that didn’t have to be hauled off to the dump.

Curved wall and toilet framing

Start of the Demolition

Today we started to tear down walls.

Plaster was something I heard about, be never had the pleasure to play with. It’s nasty, dusty, and really heavy!

Start of Plaster Removal


This was the small corner that I started to take down before I realized that plaster is nothing to try to take down neatly so….


After the plaster comes the lath!



What did we get ourselves into?!?

Remodel the Laundry Room

Today will be the start of the remodel process of our home. We moved into this home knowing the we need to add a laundry room and a half bath. In the picture below you can see the room that we decide would be the best option for what we need. At some point within the last 150 years, someone tried to put a washer in there but it wasn’t plumbed correctly but if by some miracle it was, the floor was so slanted that it would never work and may have fallen through the floor

To add a washer, dryer and toilet to this room will require some extensive work. Plumbing, electric are two of the big ones but because of the slant in the floor, the framing will be by far the biggest challenge.

We’ll walk you through most of the construction process all the way up to the finishing touches. Enjoy!

Before Image 2

Before Image 1


Ouch, we know…

It’s going to be great!!